Ramparts, Citadels and Three Quarters

November 1, 2009

Scott and I went to the Tower of David Museum to get the historical perspective on Jerusalem.  The old citadel goes through the three thousand year history of this city, beginning with the Canaanites, on and on through all of the groups that lay claim to this tiny strip of land.  Learning about the history made me realize that it’s pretty naive to think we can stop the fighting now, it’s been going on pretty much throughout Jerusalem’s existence.

The old stones everywhere look a little bit like bones, bleached out and calcified.  Where they were chipped into blocks, it looks like joint grooves.  It sort of seems appropriate here, where the stones have seen so much.

We had tremendously delicious falafel from a hole in the wall stand and wandered through the old city for a while.

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The air smelled like spices, saffron, and outside the walled city, lavender and lemon thyme.  There were olive trees while I was running, and the call to prayer while inside the Moslem Quarter.  People sold scarves, and menorahs, kitschy tee shirts and talit.  Priests in black with the collar monks and nuns passed arabs in head scarves and jews in pais, literally all shoulder to shoulder in narrow corridors.

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