Beautiful Argentine Things

October 12, 2009

We saw lots of beautiful things today–some architectural, some leafy and organic, some in the cuts of dresses and fabrics of scarves.

Scott and I went to Recoleta Cemetery, where we explored the village of tombs, each a miniature house, a little church. Some of the more interesting ones had different cubby holes, or drawers for different family members.  It was a bright, clear day, which is always sort of strange in a cemetery.

From Eva Peron’s tomb we went to her old haunt, the Casa Rosada, with its famous balcony overlooking the Plaza de Mayo. It’s incredible to think that not that long ago people just disappeared from the streets here.  I remember the image of the Plaza strongly from when we were here ten years ago, and imagining the mothers dressed in white pleading for their lost ones to come back struck me again.  We started walking down the very Parisian Avenida de Mayo, with the same gorgeous balconies and very French architecture.  It made me wonder why they didn’t just copy that in Brazil, why they insisted on the hideous 1960s blocks.

Scott went to the River Plate soccer game with all of the boys and I wandered along the Avenida del Libertador past all of the parks, stopping in at the Museu Nacional de Bellas Artes, where there was a cool pop art show and a good photography exhibition.  In the sunshine I continued walking down to Palermo Soho, peeking into the different shops that I have been eyeing as we’ve been walking through the neighborhood at night.  Argentine style is enviable, and each shop holds allure, with great design everywhere.  In certain places, too, there would be old, colorful, patterned tiles on the side of a building, or some stenciled graffiti making itself at home next to a glassy cafe front.

The light as I was walking back across the train tracks to our side of Palermo was verging on Tuscan–slanted beams playing off the railroad ties and kicked up dust and cobble stones.  It was all exceptionally beautiful.

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